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Peterhead institutions and other local industries

Peterhead’s Convict Prison dates from 1886. At the time it was largely built by the prisoners themselves; they also had to build the railway that served the quarry for the prison construction as well as for the south breakwater to Peterhead Bay – although this breakwater was not actually finished until 1963 - long after the end of use of prison labour!

During the First World War and on the outskirts of Peterhead, the most northerly airship base, known as Lenabo, was constructed. Now heavily wooded there remains very little to be seen on the ground of this important historical site.

The Second World War saw the construction of Peterhead Airfield, located between Longside and Peterhead. Built for the RAF in 1941 it was disbanded in 1945. At its busiest time there were in excess of 2000 personnel stationed there serving a large number of RAF and up to four Fleet Air Arm squadrons. Amongst the nations represented were Australians, Canadians, New Zealanders. Poles, Czechoslovaks, Belgians, and Americans. Squadrons of particular note would include the RAF 13th Group (Night Fighters) the Royal Canadian Air force (416 Squadron) and the Polish Air Force (309 Squadron).

Brief summary of the land outwith Peterhead and more on some of the associated family names of the area.
Before the Turnpike Act of 1795, there were very few roads in the Buchan area and there were no regular coaches serving the area before this time. When a coach service was eventually established it is recorded that the Peterhead to Banff coach did the return journey in 13 hours, which included a 3-hour stop over (on today’s roads, the journey would take about 45 minutes each way). Due largely to the increase in the developing railway networks the Turnpike Tolls were abolished in 1866.

The railway came to the Buchan area in 1861 but within 100 years, these too were steadily being closed and all were closed by the late 1960’s (although some of the routes have been retained and are much used as very popular walk/cycleways). The construction and upkeep of the railways brought a large number of new families to the area although the massive livestock marshalling yards situated near by at Maud Junction would have been the home for most of the railway workers.

The granite industry, developed throughout the 18th and 19th century, also brought new trades and skills for the area and therefore many more newcomers, and their families, arrived to settle. However, by the 20th century, this industry simply became too uneconomic to operate and the workers and their families had to turn to other work or simply move on.

Many of the former quarries have now been land filled; however, the sites of a number of the old quarries can still be seen in the countryside around Peterhead. In addition, each of these quarries usually had an associated ‘smithy’ to service the needs for the horses and for the steel work associated with quarrying and these buildings frequently remain as houses to this day.


19th C. advertisement for Peterhead Granite
(From Bygone Peterhead by J. Buchan. See Reference material)

Although the granite industry is no more in Peterhead the beautiful colouring of the local granite can still be seen in many buildings throughout the area and far beyond. Peterhead granite, for example, was used extensively for the construction of Australia House, Southwark Bridge, the Stock Exchange, the Foreign Office and Covent Garden. Thomas Telford (1757-1834), a Scot from Midlothian and John Rennie (1761-1821) another Scot, this time from Dumfries, were both particularly enthusiastic in the use of Peterhead granite. (It was Telford who designed and built Peterhead’s North Harbour.) Other keen proponents of Peterhead granite were Rennie’s sons George and John and many other prominent architects and engineers of the time. Other examples of public, private and church buildings built with Peterhead granite may be seen throughout the UK from Aberdeen to Brighton.
The granite was not only quarried here in Peterhead but much of it was also polished and carved at one of the two major granite works in the town before being taken out by train. Therefore, if your forebears worked in the local granite industry then it might be nice to know that there is a bit of your family history in these magnificent reminders of an industry that is now largely firmly in the past.

The following site www.buittle.org.uk/quarry.htm, although relating to a quarry in southern Scotland provides the family researcher with a highly detailed insight into the typical workings of a 19th granite quarry.

Peterhead’s South Harbour was designed and built by John Smeaton (1724-1792, the ‘father of civil engineering’). (Smeaton also built the Eddystone Lighthouse, the remains of which are on Plymouth Hoe, before he went on to concentrate on river, canal and harbour works.)
The lighthouse at nearby Boddam was the work of Robert Stephenson 1803-1859 (son of George Stephenson and grandfather of Robert Louis Stephenson).
Thomas Blake Glover (1838-1911) was born, just up the coast, at Fraserburgh and is highly revered in Japan where he is considered as being one of the founding fathers of modern Japan.

Thomas Henry Brunton (1841-1901) was another Buchan engineer who took his home skills overseas for he too went to Japan and there became known as ‘The Father of Japanese Lighthouses’ constructing more than 50 during his time there.

Strange, but true - Brunton and Glover are probably far better known today in Japan than in Scotland.

Peterhead summary
Peterhead has long been associated with fishing and remains a major fishing and fish processing town to this day, as such it is largely an industrial town. Although it does have a number of good vistas, it has to be said that it is not known as being a leading tourist town; however, we are working to improve the tourism markets. The town centre and its immediate environs have largely remained unchanged for several hundred years. For the family historian this historic stability is a great bonus, enabling those interested in tracing their family roots to walk the same streets, see the same buildings and walk around the same harbour, slips and docks as a long line of their ancestors did before them.

The pictures below show Broad Street in the 19th century and as it is today:


(From Bygone Peterhead by J. Buchan. See Reference material)


From Bygone Peterhead by J. Buchan. See Reference material)


(Photograph commissioned by Peterhead Tourism Initiative)

A further bonus for the Peterhead tourist is that as the major road and rail networks have generally bypassed this corner of Scotland many of the surrounding towns and villages have also retained their strong Georgian and Victorian presence. This same lack of major ‘through’ roads also makes for easy, relaxed driving throughout Buchan, far from the traumas of more southerly locations in the UK. 

In addition to the various historic castle and whisky trails the spectacular coastlines (varying from craggy cliffs to 100 foot high sand dunes and miles of soft golden sand) wild life nature sanctuaries, cycling, walking, riding, golfing and fishing opportunities and many other holiday escapes to leave visitors with a myriad of choices to fill their time between bouts of serious family research.